[Mauser 98K]

well funny part, they say that the direct port injection is better because it increases power and loses less fuel because it is closer to the port.

well it may look good on CAD but in real it sucks, let me explain.

in order for a engine to combust properly the fuel and air have to be mixed properly, the job of the carbureator was atomize the fuel and to mix incomeing air with the fuel and it worked, a properly tuned carbureator will get quiet cold and will condense the fuel on the inside of the intake and that condensed gas will not combust properly, see where im getting? well to take care of that problem they heated the intake by exaust or by water thus decreasing the ammount of condensed fuel in the intake.

and the direct port injection, well like i said the job of the carbureator was to atomize and mix the fuel with the air, well the injection in the port on top of the valve is just spraying raw fuel into the cylnder and it isnt being mixed properly with the incomeing air, if they wanted to improve this design of engine they would allow the fuel to atomize properly and mix with the incomeing air by puting the injectors atleast 6 or 7 inches from the port by threading them into a tunnel intake system.

longated tubes with the injectors in the end of them alowing them to atomize the fuel and giving it enough time to mix properly with the incomeing air thus increasing horse power and using less fuel.

what do ya think the job of the catostrophic converter is (the big muffler looking thing on ya exaust system) it is to burn the unused gas that isnt burned properly because it wasnt mixed properly.

i can right now tune up a 241ci hemi motor and get better milage than most of the socalled fuel effecient motors, i can get in a 4000lb truck get 26 and above mpg and still get over 130mph with the so called uneffecient carbureator.

1 way to do this is to put a open 1 inch thick spacer under the carbureator, by doing this i have done 2 things, i have moved the carbureator up some makingthe passage a little longer giving it time to mix the fuel and air better, and also by the spacer being open it will trick the engine into thinking it has a bigger carbureator than it does because both side of the engine will see both barrels of the 2 barrel carbureator, ya would be supprised how much power ya gain by doing this and not effecting the ammount of fuel ya use.

tuning the exaust pipe length, ya hear these trucks with 2 mile long pipes that go blaaaattttt blaaaaaattttt , well that is verry bad, the blaaaatttt sound ya hear is the reverberation pulse that is set up in the loger than life pipes and it drives the exaust right back into the cylnder cutting power.

can ya tell me the reason for slash cutting the end if ya pipe?. . . . . it is to reduce the back pulse of the exaust.

the best length i have tried was to end the pipes in front of the back axle, and keepem equil lengths or 1 side will have more backpressure than the other and make tuning difficult, another thing ya can add is an H pipe, it connects the duel pipes somewhere in the center and helps to balance the system.

and keepem as streight as p[ossable for every turn or dogleg ya have in ya pipes will increase the backpressure.

when tuning an engine with a distributor ya can cheat and use 8:1 pistons so ya can run it on pump gas and vary the cyl pressure with advancing the timing making it fire earlier in the power stroke witch acts like using higher compressin pistons, and useing colder plugs ya can advance the timing even further , i have N9YC in my car at the moment so i can turn up the timing for more power.

just dont advance it to far or itll detonate and bust pistons bend rods and do all kindof nasty things.

the sound you are looking for is tune to resonance, listen to the engine, and when ya get to the sound thsat it sounds like woom woom woom but really fast ya are close to the sweet spot.

and dont go and grab the biggest dam carbureator you find, for a normal motor of 318ci 500cfm is good if ya go to far ya will try to force feed it fuel and ya performance will suffer, and dont get the biggest dam intake you can find, for unlessyou are drag racing and never letting out of the trottel it is pointless.

a smaller pleminum makes for better response, that is why most will if they ever let up and hit the gas again it bogs for it will take a munit for the velocity of the incomeing air to get up enough to get any response.

the smaller plenium will make for better response by allowing for less time for the velocity of the incomeing air to get fast enough for power.

1 cool thing ya can do is put on a velocity stack, it looks like a funnel and ya put it on the carbureator, it wirks by taking out the turbulence of the air comeing in.

and put it on a long tube and put it behind ya grill and it will work like a ram air system and will pick up the power too.

there are all kinds of thing ya can do to get better power without changing the engine type.

and read the spark plugs, this seams like something forgot, if they are black and furry, ya are running rich, if they are totaly wite without color ya are to lean and will make enging run hotter and make it detonate and melt the pistons .

as sea lever get higher ya can lean up the engin just a little for there is less oxygen for the engin to burn so it will richen up a little.

can any 1 tell me what a knock sensor is for? . . . . . . . . it is to retard the timing of an engine to prevent detonation due to a crappy fuel, like regular, and some will tell ya , regular is just as good as premium and my car will run just fine on it.

well the reason that your car runs ok on it is becaue of this sensor retarding the timing and preventing it from rattling, ya can do the same by backing the timing down manualy with a distributor car, cant really tell ya what detonation sounds like , hard to explain, ya would have to hear it for yaself to know what ya are hearing.

but better gas will increae milage, it does so by allowing for less fule for the power output so ya get a good power with less fuel so ya gett better milage.


and a screwy note, ya remember the old 70s cars that were electronic ignition? well that box was the size of a cigeratt pack, and computer have decrease in size since, eell now the computer in cars is preatty much the entire interiror, what is in that computer? and i have personaly took a box out of a car that had no wiring diagram in the book or the scematic and it had a antenna in it, book didnt say what it was but only thst it was required, well ive been running without it for 5 years.

and ya wana hear something funny? ya know all these people with NOS on their cars, well NOS or nitrious oxide is an oxidizer and it works on unefficient engines, i have rode in cars that my uncle has built that had no nitrious just naturaly asperated that would go from 0 to 140mph+ in under a 1\4 mile we had a buick riv with a 455 wildcat engine in it that would bury the 120+ speedometer in 1\8 mile and smokem almost 250yards.

but 1 thing you can use instead of NOS, is O2 thats rite oxygen, biught at any welding house and less than half price of NO2, it is also an oxidizer.

my uncle is an ex street racer and he raced in the 60S and 70S during the horse power wars, that is who i learned from and he had a 68 dodge pickup truck with a 241 hemi with a 4 barrel carb that would go from 3rd to 4th at 120 and burn the tires, top speed of 168 mph, i have rode in this truck i can tell you that it will do this.